Masienda

Masienda is a brand committed to promoting biodiversity and preserving cultural traditions in the food system

I’m a massive believer in the value of small-scale regenerative farming, so any time I can find a company that shares my values and adds to the regenerative farming movement I’m more than happy to lend my support.  Masienda is exactly one of those brands, with a focus on preserving heirloom corn grown using traditional agricultural practices, thereby promoting biodiversity and preserving cultural traditions in the food system that date back to 1500 BC.  By sourcing and supplying these varieties of corn to chefs and home cooks, Masienda’s aim is to create a more sustainable and equitable food system for both the farmers and the consumers.

Photo Credit: Noah Forbes

The Masienda Story

Masienda was founded in 2014 by Jorge Gaviria, a former apprentice at the legendary farm-to-table restaurant Blue Hill.  Seeking to create a tortilla revolution in the U.S. in much the same way that coffee and bread making have undergone their own revolutions over the last decade, Gaviria turned his attention to heirloom corn while traveling in Mexico. Unlike corn grown in the U.S. – the mass produced, nearly all inedible corn found in everything from cattle feed to shoe polish – Gaviria studied the different varieties of corn that were used in traditional Mexican cooking, and was immediately struck by their unique flavors and textures. He also discovered that many of these varieties were in danger of being lost due to the dominance of hybrid corn and the use of industrial farming practices.

Gaviria decided to start Masienda to help preserve these heirloom varieties and promote their use in the culinary world. Since then he’s partnered with hundreds of farmers in Mexico to source the best quality corn, and subsequently created a market for it in the United States. Today, Masienda supplies corn to some of the best restaurants in the country, as well as home cooks who are passionate about cooking with traditional ingredients.

Masienda CORNucopia Kit

Masienda CORNucopia Kit

The Cornucopia Kit

The easiest way to introduce yourself to Masienda is to go all in with the Cornucopia Kit.  One of Masienda’s most popular products, the Cornucopia kit includes everything you need to make your own tortillas and other corn-based dishes at home. The kit includes a Doña Rosa Tortilla Press, a carbon steel comal, the Masa cookbook, organic cotton tortilla warmer pouch, and heirloom masa.  Putting it succinctly, it’s quite literally everything you need, including the knowledge of how to make unbelievably perfect tortillas from the comfort of your own home.  Learn more at the official Masienda website.

  • The Doña Rosa Tortilla Press
    The Doña Rosa Tortilla Press is a traditional, built like a tank tortilla press that’s handmade by artisans in Mexico. Forget the cheap tortilla makers on Amazon (yes, I’ve tried them, and they’re garbage) – the Doña Rosa Tortilla Press is in an entirely different league.  It’s designed to make perfect tortillas every time, which is precisely what it does, while its sturdy construction ensures it will likely outlast you and your kids.
  • Carbon Steel Comal
    Once they’re pressed, tortillas need to be cooked.  Enter the comal.  The carbon steel comal is a flat griddle that is used to cook tortillas and other foods over an open flame. It’s made from high-quality carbon steel that heats evenly and retains heat well, making it perfect for cooking tortillas.
  • Masa Cookbook
    Knowledge is power, and the Masa Cookbook is going to turn you into the He-Man or She-Ra of tortilla making.  The Masa Cookbook is a comprehensive guide to firstly make masa (which is the dough that is used to make tortillas and other corn-based dishes), then transforming it into the actual tortillas/masa-based dishes. It includes step-by-step instructions for making masa from scratch, as well as recipes for different types of tortillas, tamales, and other dishes.  And on a more personal note, as someone who owns several Rick Bayless books and never really liked any of them, this book is honestly the book the world has been waiting for when it comes to making tortillas.
  • Heirloom Masa
    Last but not least, the Cornucopia Kit includes heirloom masa, which is made from corn that is grown using traditional agricultural practices and stone-ground into a fine masa. This masa has a unique flavor and texture that is noticeably better than commercial masa, and it’s perfect for making authentic tortillas and other dishes.
  • Organic Cotton Tortilla Warmer Pouch
    Toss your fresh tortillas in this custom-made tortilla warmer to keep them perfectly moist and warm until you’re ready to eat.
Doña Rosa Tlayuda Press

Doña Rosa Tlayuda (Tortilla) Press

 

Molcajete from MasiendaPhoto Credit: Monica Godefroy

Masienda Malcajete

In addition to the Cornucopia kit, Masienda offers a variety of other products for chefs and home cooks, with one of their most popular items being the molcajete.  Designed by artisan Don Enrique of San Salvador El Seco, Puebla,the molcajete is a beautiful and authentic piece of Mexican kitchenware that’s perfect for grinding and mixing herbs, spices, and other ingredients. Made from volcanic rock, this traditional mortar and pestle is a statement piece of the highest-quality – one that I will happily keep forever.

One of the things that stands out about the Molcajete from Masienda is its size, measuring 8 inches in diameter, which is larger than many other molcajetes you’ll find. This gives you plenty of space to grind and mix your ingredients, and makes it easy to prepare larger batches of salsas, guacamole, and other dishes.  The size of the molcajete also adds to the weight, giving it the perfect amount of stability and preventing it from moving around on the counter during use or tipping over when used as a serving dish.  And you will definitely want to use it as a serving dish, as the Molcajete from Masienda is simply beautiful. The natural texture and coloring of the volcanic rock gives a rustic and authentic look that’s perfect for any kitchen or table.  Learn more at the official Masienda website.

Molcajete from Masienda

Molcajete from Masienda

History of Masa: A Celebration of Mexico’s Time-Honored Culinary Tradition

Masa, the ancient dough used to make tortillas, tamales, and other Mexican culinary delights, has been a dietary staple in Mexico for thousands of years. Its roots can be traced back to the pre-Columbian civilizations of Mesoamerica, where maize was not only a food source but also a cultural and spiritual symbol.

Masienda Heirloom Masa is a brand that celebrates this rich culinary heritage by producing artisanal masa made from heirloom varieties of corn grown in Mexico

The Aztecs, who ruled over central Mexico from the 14th to the 16th century, were renowned for their advanced agricultural practices, including the cultivation of maize. They developed various techniques for processing maize, such as nixtamalization, which involves cooking the kernels in an alkaline solution made from lime or ash. This process not only softened the maize but also improved its nutritional value, making it easier to digest and enhancing its essential vitamins and minerals.

The resulting dough, known as masa, was used to make tortillas, the ubiquitous flatbread that has become synonymous with Mexican cuisine. The Aztecs believed that maize was a gift from the gods and that tortillas represented the sun, the center of their universe. They consumed them in large quantities, often accompanied by beans, chilies, and other ingredients.

After the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the 16th century, new ingredients and cooking techniques were introduced, but the use of masa remained a central element of Mexican cuisine. Today, masa is still made using traditional methods in many parts of Mexico, with variations in texture, flavor, and color depending on the region and the type of corn used.

It’s this rich culinary heritage that Masienda celebrates by producing artisanal masa made from heirloom varieties of corn. These varieties, which have been passed down from generation to generation, have unique characteristics that contribute to the flavor and texture of the masa.  One of the critical aspects of Masienda’s approach is the use of nixtamalization, the ancient technique developed by the Aztecs. This process not only enhances the nutritional value of the corn but also improves its flavor and aroma, giving the masa a distinctive character.

‘La Familia Masa Bundle’ is a collection of all four types of Masienda's finely milled, nixtamalized Heirloom Corn Masa Harina: White, Yellow, Blue, and Red, whose bright colors come from the corn’s naturally occurring pigments.

‘La Familia Masa Bundle’ is a collection of all four types of Masienda’s finely milled, nixtamalized Heirloom Corn Masa Harina: White, Yellow, Blue, and Red, whose bright colors come from the corn’s naturally occurring pigments.

Another essential element of Masienda’s philosophy is the promotion of sustainable farming practices and the support of small-scale farmers in Mexico. By working directly with these farmers, Masienda ensures that the corn is grown using environmentally friendly methods and that the farmers receive fair prices for their products.

Masienda offers a range of masa varieties, including white, blue, and red, each with its own unique flavor profile. These masas can be used to make traditional Mexican dishes such as tortillas, tamales, sopes, and gorditas, as well as innovative creations that showcase the versatility of this ancient ingredient.

Conclusion

Masienda is a brand that is dedicated to promoting biodiversity and preserving cultural traditions in the food system, and that’s something we as a society need to support. Their focus on heirloom corn and traditional agricultural practices is a reminder of the importance of preserving our culinary heritage. The Cornucopia kit, with its Doña Rosa Tortilla Press, carbon steel comal, Masa cookbook, organic cotton tortilla warmer pouch, and heirloom masa, is a must have for any beginner or expert tortilla maker that desires a taste of tradition.

You can learn more about Masienda and their full lineup of products at the official Masienda website.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo

The Alex Duetto II espresso maker offers a unique dual boiler design, incredible temperature stability and is remarkably easy to use

When it comes to food or anything food related, I’m an unwavering perfectionist in every sense of the word. It’s a compulsion – one that forces me to spend hours studying a given entrée, drink, or what have you, until I find a rendition that in my view, perfectly exemplifies what this particular item should be.

Six months ago, it was this perfectionism that led me on an epic journey into the world of espresso making.

But before I go any further, let me give you a bit of background about myself.

I’m a coffee guy, plain and simple.  I love it.  There’s not a day that goes by that I don’t have at least a pair of coffee drinks in the morning.

But as with any vice, there’s a problem:  coffee isn’t cheap.  Step into any main coffee house and you’re spending at least a couple bucks an espresso, $3-5 for milk and espresso drinks, and before you know it, you’re spending almost $10 a morning on coffee.  Even worse, you have to take the time to go to the coffee shop and then wait in line to get it.

After realizing the inefficiency of my coffee habit – namely, the amount I was spending weekly and time I wasted procuring it – I decided there had to be a better way.

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how I was introduced to the world of home espresso making.

Espresso Overview

In America, espresso is arguably one of the most misunderstood drinks there is.  Whether you’re going to Starbucks or a local coffee shop, if your espresso tastes burnt, exceptionally dark, sour, or notes any other distinctly unpleasant tastes, there’s a very, very high probability it’s being made incorrectly.  It may be the coffee itself, or it may be the technique used to make the espresso.

Contrary to popular belief, espresso is not an acquired taste.  If it tastes bad, in all likelihood, it is bad.  And in truth, unless you live near a major city, finding exceptionally made espresso is nearly impossible (and even then it can be challenging).

So how can you tell what a good espresso is?  There’s really no simple answer.  Espresso is like wine, in that each espresso roast notes its own flavor characteristics.  But as a general rule, a good espresso should note a distinct flavor.  It may be a fruity flavor, it may be a nutty flavor, it may be a chocolatey flavor, or it may be any combination of the three.  But if you try an espresso and you’re left with a markedly ashy taste, something’s probably wrong.

In my case, I was fortunate enough to get fantastic espresso from Intelligentsia and Metropolis Coffee in Chicago.  Both helped teach me what espresso should taste like, as well as what to avoid.

The Perfect Espresso

So how does one achieve the perfect espresso?

The answer is complicated.

Thankfully, we live in a beautiful age of information – one in which the internet can make a genius out of anyone on any given topic.  Pick a subject, and you’ll find a multitude of websites dedicated to educating you about it.  Espresso is no exception.  When I finally decided to take the plunge into making my own espresso, I found that a multitude of fantastic resources were available online to help even the most basic of novices learn how to become a barista, with Home-Barista.com being one of my favorites.  They have not only an incredibly detailed “Guide to Espresso”, they also have a great community of espresso enthusiasts that discuss virtually every element of espresso making.

Ultimately, I’ve found that perfect espresso boils down to four things:  1) the coffee itself, 2) the espresso machine, 3), the espresso grinder, and 4) the barista tools and techniques.  Each are vital to the espresso making process, which is why I’m going to be detailing each in separate articles (except for the coffee, which will be detailed in all three).

First is the coffee.  It absolutely has to be quality, freshly roasted coffee from a purveyor that knows how to roast.  This pretty much eliminates purchasing coffee from the grocery store.  Instead, I buy all my coffee online.  Some of my favorite sources:  Metropolis Coffee, Redbird Coffee and Counter Culture Coffee.  If I buy from Metropolis, it arrives a day after roasting.  If I buy from Redbird Coffee, it arrives 3 days post roast.  The key is knowing the exact roast date of the coffee, and subsequently figuring out the coffees optimal time to use it.  Some espresso likes a short rest, some a little longer.

The second element to the perfect espresso is the machine.  You need a machine capable of maintaining a consistent brew pressure of 8-9.5  bar and a temperature of 90 – 96 degrees Celsius.  As I’m about to detail, I opted for the Alex Duetto II by Izzo, which is capable of doing both with immense precision and consistency.

Thirdly is the grinder.  I’m going to be talking about espresso grinders in a separate article, but the key is to find a grinder capable of delivering a consistent grind fine enough to match the espresso you’re preparing.  I opted for the MAHLKÖNIG K30 Vario – a commercial grinder that not only delivers an incredibly consistent grind, it also makes adjusting the fineness and amount of espresso ground incredibly simple.

Lastly is the barista tools (and corresponding technique).  Again, I’m going to be writing a dedicated article for barista tools, but I opted for a range of tampers and other accessories from TORR, all of which I’ve come to love and use every day.

So that’s the overview of what you need to make the perfect espresso; now we’ll look at the first piece of equipment you’ll need to make it happen:  the machine.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo Overview

Enter the world of espresso making, and you’re immediately inundated with a gargantuan assortment of espresso machines spanning the gamut of price and features.  Anywhere from a few hundred to $10,000.

Why the huge price difference?

It boils down to temperature consistency, ease-of-use, and at the very high end, style.

As already noted, to create the perfect espresso, you need a consistent brew temperature and pressure with every shot.  Because each espresso roast notes different flavor profiles at different temperatures, the ability to adjust and maintain a precise temperature is paramount to bringing out the best possible flavors from each espresso blend.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo front view

After spending hours researching various machines, I finally picked the Alex Duetto II by Izzo, and I did so for a variety of reasons.  Simply put, the Alex Duetto II boasts nearly all of the features of the most expensive home espresso machines at a fraction of the cost ($2,500 for the Duetto II vs. $5,500 and up for the more expensive machines).  At the other end of the spectrum, compared to other, less expensive espresso makers, the Alex Duetto II notes several key features that places it firmly above lesser models, especially when you’re new to home espresso making.

For home baristas, especially those making their first forray into the world of home espresso, the Alex Duetto II really is the perfect blend of price, performance and capabilities.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo Features

Let’s look firstly at the features you’ll find on the Alex Duetto II by Izzo.  The Alex Duetto II notes the same functions found on a typical commercial espresso maker, which means it has the main espresso making function (in the center group head), a separate steam wand for steaming milk, and a separate hot water wand to dispense water for tea, etc.

Where the magic really happens, however, is under the hood, where the Alex Duetto II notes a dual boiler design – a design that up until relatively recently, was only available on significantly more expensive espresso makers.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo left top view

Unlike heat exchanger espresso makers (also known as HX models) that share a boiler, the Alex Duetto II notes separate boilers for the steaming and brewing functions.  So while both HX and dual boiler machines can produce an exceptional cup of espresso, the dual boiler makes it substantially easier to do so, because temperatures of each boiler are independent of one another.  To set the temperatures, the Duetto II features a PID control for each boiler.  Simply pick a brew temperature (typically in the 195 – 201 degree Fahrenheit range ), set it on the electronic PID, and the brew temperature is set and remains constant.  The same is true for the steam boiler – pick a temperature (which directly affects steaming pressure), set it on the PID, and you’re done.  You always have a visual representation of the temperatures for each boiler, completely eliminating any guesswork.  Changing the temperatures involves a couple button presses, and that’s it.  If you’re new to espresso making, it’s about as easy as you can get.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo right side

As for the actual brewing, the Duetto II features the highly regarded E61 brew group.  First used by Faema in the 1961 (hence, it’s name), the E61 is the workhorse of the espresso making world, used over the past four decades in a huge number of espresso machines, both prosumer and commercial.  It’s this component that ensures the water temperature from the boiler stays constant all the way through to the coffee, and the E61 is a legend in the industry for doing exactly that.  It’s maintains excellent temperature stability, it’s exceptionally robust (meaning if you take care of it, it will give you years of trouble-free use), and in the event you do need to fix it, parts are readily available.

From there, the list of Alex Duetto II features is huge.  Here are some of my favorites:

  • There’s a water tank, or you can plumb it in directly to your water supply.
  • There’s a huge drip tray, or you can plumb it directly to a drain with the included drain kit.
  • The steam and hot water wands are insulated, so you won’t burn yourself if you touch them.
  • The Duetto II uses a rotary pump, making it substantially quieter than standard pumps.
  • You can turn off the steam boiler independently, meaning if all you’re making is espresso, you can save energy.

The final piece of the Alex Duetto II that bears mention is its design.  Because an espresso maker will hold a prominent place in your kitchen, design is certainly a factor in your decision making process.  Thankfully, the Alex Duetto II is a gorgeous machine, featuring an entirely stainless steel construction.  I looked at several machines prior to my purchase, and for me, the Alex Duetto II easily outranked the other machines, both from a style and fit-and-finish standpoint.  Six months later, I still love the design of my Alex Duetto II.  It fits beautifully in with the rest of my kitchen, and it receives compliments from almost everyone that sees it.

Making Espresso with the Alex Duetto II by Izzo

So how does the Alex Duetto II work?  Now that I’ve lived with the Alex Duetto II for over half a year, I can tell you that I’m in love with it.  I just returned from a month in Italy and France, and I can honestly say there wasn’t a single time I had an espresso or espresso based drink that rivaled those produced by my Duetto.  Even here in the U.S., from places like Intelligentsia, I’ve yet to have an espresso that’s brought me more joy than what I myself can produce from the comfort of my own home.

Using the Alex Duetto II, as I’ve already alluded to, is about as simple as you can get, even if you’re new to home espresso making.  In setting up the unit, the first thing you need to choose is either using 15-amp or 20-amp service.  It’s the same machine (the 15-amp uses a cord adapter); the difference is that in 20-amp mode, you can steam milk and make espresso simultaneously; in 15-amp mode, you have do one at a time.  I’ve used mine in both 15-amp and 20-amp, and both produce equal results.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo drip tray and E61 brew group

From there, you have to choose either to plumb in the Duetto II or use the tank and drip tray.  Again, you can do both on the fly any time you want.  I started using the Duetto II with the water tank and drip tray, then a couple months later I used the included accessories to plumb it in once I had settled on a final location.  It’s a very simple process to plumb it in, and once you’ve done it, you’ll never go back to using the tank and drip tray.

And that’s really it as far as setup is concerned.  My Alex Duetto II came factory set with a brew temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit and steam pressure of 1.5 bars, which is the perfect starting point for making espresso and steaming milk.  Grind your espresso into the portafilter, tamp, place the portafilter into the E61 group head, flip the lever, and in 25-30 seconds, you’re on your way to making the perfect cup of espresso.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo left view closer

Once you’ve gotten comfortable with the process, you can then play with the temperature settings to see how it affects the espresso flavor.  To change the settings, you hold two buttons on the PID, which brings up the boiler temps.  Press the up arrow to enter the main boiler’s temperature setting, then adjust it up or down to change the temperature.  Once you know how to do it, you can adjust the temperature in 5 seconds, at most.  Changing the steam boilers settings is likewise just as easy, although once set, you’ll likely never have to change it.

As far as consistency is concerned, the Alex Duetto II excels at delivering incredibly great espresso every single time.  It’s so consistent, in fact, that in the event there’s a problem with my espresso, I don’t even factor in the Duetto II.  Instead, I can attribute it exclusively to an error on my part somewhere else, either in the quality of coffee or in my grind settings and/or tamping.  Once you’ve been using it for a couple months, however, and get used to a specific espresso blend, you’re virtually guaranteed your espresso is going to be exactly how you want it, each and every time.  It’s absolutely remarkable how easy it is to use, and how stable its performance is.  It’s really without fault.

Steaming Milk with the Alex Duetto II by Izzo

For milk based drinks, such as cappuccino or lattes, the steaming function of the Alex Duetto II works brilliantly, thanks to a 1.8L steam boiler with 1,200 W heating element.  If you’re new to steaming milk, this is the most difficult part of the learning process; but once you know how to do it, it becomes second nature.

The key to making a milk-based drinks is first understanding what the milk’s texture should be.  If you’ve ever been to Starbucks or any coffee house and ordered a cappuccino, you probably received a coffee with a very airy layer of milk on top – so airy, in fact, that as you drank it, the coffee came out without the foam.  When you were done, there was probably a layer of foam stuck at the bottom of the cup.  This, however, is entirely wrong.  Instead, properly steamed milk is known as microfoam in the espresso world (which is used for lattes and latte art), and a slightly more steamed option, which is used for cappuccino.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo No Burn Steam Wand

When steaming, correct microfoam gives a glossy appearance, similar to that of wet paint.  There shouldn’t be bubbles – it should be universally smooth – and it shouldn’t be too hot (between 130 – 140 degrees).  The result is a beautifully sweet milk that completely transforms the taste of your espresso.  Latte art gives a more milky drink, whereas cappuccinos have a slightly thicker layer of milk on top, while still blending in with the rest of the coffee.  There’s a great video demonstrating a properly made cappuccino on Vimeo, although I typically reserve latte art for lattes and macchiatos.

Never having steamed my own milk before, it took about a month before I was fairly comfortable steaming milk with the Duetto II.  The most difficult part is simply technique – finding the correct spot to place the steam wand during steaming.  From a power standpoint of the machine, however, the Alex Duetto II notes more power than you need to make perfect microfoam each and every time.  I have my Duetto II set to 1.5 bars of pressure, and it works brilliantly – easily producing results equatable to those from my favorite coffee houses.

A couple tips I learned along the way:

  • Firstly, when you’re steaming, keep your hand on the bottom of the pitcher.  As it’s nearing the point it’s too hot to touch, stop steaming, otherwise you’ll burn the milk and ruin the texture.
  • All milks aren’t created equal.  Use the freshest milk you can find, and experiment with different brands.  Here in the Midwest, it’s easy to buy local milk, and I’ve found the fresher the milk, the better the microfoam (and taste).
  • Keep the milk pitcher and milk cold.  You want enough time for the milk to properly steam before getting too hot, so keeping the milk and pitcher cold buys you extra time.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo Maintenance

If you’re wondering how much work it is to maintain the Duetto II, it’s quite easy.  After making an espresso, take out the portafilter, dump the coffee puck, wipe, and you’re ready to make another espresso.  When I’m done for the day, I run a few seconds of water through the group head, then wipe off the screen.  And every few weeks, I run a bit of espresso cleaning solution in a special portafilter to flush out the group head – a process that takes a couple minutes in total.

It’s remarkably easy to take care of the Duetto II, and after more than six months of use, it looks and operates exactly as it did the day I bought it.

Where to Buy the Alex Duetto II by Izzo

As great as the Alex Duetto II is and has been for me, a huge factor in the decision making process came from where I bought it:  Chris Coffee.  Chris Coffee is without a doubt the preeminent purveyor of espresso and coffee making equipment, both for home use and commercial use, and I really can’t recommend the entire staff at Chris Coffee highly enough.

I can’t tell you how much time I spent researching espresso makers, and Chris Coffee took a tremendous amount of time answering the many, many questions I asked and ensuring I made the right choice.  Whether you get the Alex Duetto II or are considering a different espresso maker, talk the to the staff at Chris Coffee, as they’re an invaluable resource for all things coffee.  They carry a huge range of espresso makers, grinders, accessories and coffee-related goodness, and they’re easily the best way to get you started on your path to espresso nirvana.  And although I haven’t used it, Chris Coffee also has an exceptional service department, so in the event you do have a problem with your machine, you’re always covered with top-notch support.

Alex Duetto II by Izzo Conclusion

After spending over six months with the Alex Duetto II, it has surpassed what I thought was possible from home espresso.  I was confident I’d be able to make good espresso at home, but the fact I can make espresso that rivals that of the best coffee houses is incredible.  Even better, however, is that I can do it consistently on a daily basis.

If you love espresso but haven’t made the plunge to a home unit, I can’t recommend it enough.  Talk to the guys at Chris Coffee, put the Alex Duetto II at the top of your list, and you’ll be making the best espresso you’ve ever tasted from the comfort of your own home, guaranteed.

You can learn more about the Alex Duetto II by visiting the Chris Coffee website (currently the Duetto II is on sale for $2,250), or you can check out photos of my Alex Duetto II in the gallery below.  Also, be sure to check out part two of our espresso guide, where we look at the Mahlkönig K30 Vario grinder; and part three of our espresso guide, where we look at Torr tampers and other espresso accessories.

Komo Duett 100

The Komo Duett 100 combines a grain mill and flaker in a single unit, making grinding your own grains at home a breeze

Imagine a world with no bread. Your favorite sandwiches, gone. Breakfasts, ruined. Pizza is no more. Even tortillas are a form of bread, thus eliminating Mexican cuisine as we know it.

Simply put, bread is the food equivalent of water, a nourishing staple that’s sustained civilizations for thousands of years. And the best part? It’s simplicity. At it’s core, bread is merely milled grain and water. Add yeast or other leavening agents and bread takes on thousands of new dimensions.

But there’s a problem. As food production has been industrialized and local bakeries have been replaced with large commercial bread producers, the quality of bread has deteriorated to a point that virtually all of its health benefits have evaporated. Look at the packaging of bread at your local grocery store, and you need a PhD in chemistry to understand the ingredient list.

Simply put, making bread is no longer about providing vital nourishment, it’s about creating something that has the longest possible shelf life.

The Commercial Bread Making Process

To understand commercial bread in America, you have to understand the basics of grain and how the commercial bread making process works.   In the U.S., where most bread is made from wheat, the process begins with fresh wheat being ground and sifted.  And it’s this initial step where the problem begins.  In sifting the flour, the wheat’s bran and germ are removed, but it’s these two elements that contain virtually all of the nutrients offered by the grain.

Due to their high nutritional value, the bran and germ are sold as feed for livestock and other animals.  What’s left is white flour, a highly starchy substance with little nutritional value, and it’s this white flour that’s the primary ingredient in so many breads.  From a statistical perspective, 95% of flour sold is of the white variety.  And if that isn’t bad enough, oftentimes the flour is bleached simply for the sake of making it whiter, which adds in a lovely dash of benzoyl peroxide or chlorine as well (despite the fact these substances are banned in the European Union).

“What about whole wheat?”, you ask.

Whole wheat is better, to be sure, but it’s an incremental improvement.  I told you how wheat is ground and sifted.  Whole wheat flour is still sifted, with the key difference being the bran is added back in.  What you’re missing, however, is the germ, which is a key component to wheat’s nutritional value.  The germ is the wheat’s embryo, and it’s the most vitamin and mineral rich part of the wheat kernel.  Without going to specifics, wheat germ is loaded with B vitamins, fiber, phytosterols, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin E, and the list goes on.

So why is the germ left out?  Because the germ’s healthy oils go rancid quickly, making it more difficult to use because the wheat can’t be stored as long.  Difficult isn’t cost effective, so the germ is left out.  Even without the germ, however, store bought bread is still loaded with preservatives, many of which are banned in other countries and all of which negatively affect your health.

So what are your options?

You’ve got three.  If you’re completely opposed to baking yourself, you can find a bakery that uses freshly ground flour to produce their breads.  The second option is to find a source that freshly grinds their own wheat and purchase flour from them.  The third option, and the one I highly recommend, is that you purchase a grain mill and use your own freshly milled flour to create your own baking masterpieces.

Sound too difficult?  It isn’t.

As the owner of a Komo Duett 100 grain mill, I’m here to tell you that milling your own grain is about as simple as you can get.  Anyone with even the most basic baking skills can use a Komo grain mill to grind their own flour, and the result will be a bread that is simply astonishing compared to anything you’ll find in a grocery store.

Read on and I’ll tell you what makes Komo grain mills so great.

Who is Komo?

Based in Germany, Komo is a company founded by Peter Koidl of Austria and Wolfgang Mock of Germany, and they’ve been manufacturing grain mills for over 25 years.  Their grain mills come in a variety of designs and sizes, with the key differences being the style of the exterior housing as well as the speed of grinding.  All our housed in gorgeous furniture grade beechwood, and all are stunning in design.

To ensure consistent, low temperature grinding , Komo mills utilize a combination of corundum/ceramic stones.  Stones have been used for centuries as the optimal way to mill grain, but unlike other stones that have a tendency to wear out over time and require a relatively high amount of maintenance,  Komo’s proprietary stone grinders offer the benefits of stone milling with a material that’s self cleaning and virtually indestructible.  The result is years of hassle free grain milling with virtually no maintenance required.

Another engineering element unique to Komo is their patented spring tensioners for the millstones.  As opposed to fixed millstones that have a tendency to be very loud, Komo mills’s stones are spring tensioned, which not only signficantly cuts down the noise when grinding, it also helps preserve the millstones themselves.

The Komo Duett 100 Overview

Picking a Komo grain mill is a case of picking a design that fits your kitchen and picking a size that can handle the amount of grain you want to mill.  There’s a total of eight different Komo design configurations, six of which are strictly grain mills.  The other two, one of which is the Komo Duett 100, offers both a grain mill and a flaker in a single unit.  Highlights of the Duett 100 include two separate electric motors (360W for the mill and 140W for the flaker), 3.35 inch diameter mill stones and a 2 lb. 10 oz. hopper fill capacity.

Komo Duett 100 Grain Mill right side view

So why did I pick the Komo Duett 100?  I picked it for a couple reasons.  Number one, I knew that I wanted both a grain mill and a flaker, which meant I could either buy both units separately or buy both in a single unit.  While there are advantages to both, for me, the advantages of the Duett 100 outweighed purchasing two separate units.  Cost wise, it’s cheaper to buy the Duett 100.  I’m a fan of saving money, so that’s a clear advantage for the Duett.  Secondly, because I planned on keeping the Komo on my counter as opposed to putting it away after every use, having both the mill and flaker in a single unit makes the design a little more streamlined (one unit on your counter instead of two).  If I was short on counter space or planned on putting the mill away when not in use, then I would have seriously considered splitting up the units.

The second reason I picked the Duett 100 is simply because I liked its design.   It’s simple, it’s rustic with a hint of elegance, and I like the sweeping curve over the flaker.  Because it’s going to be staying on my counter, I wanted a design I could look at everyday for years to come, and for me, the Duett 100 fit the bill perfectly.

As for what the Komo Duett 100 can mill, the list is extensive.  Hard and soft wheat, dehulled oats, rice, triticale, kamut, spelt, buckwheat, barley, rye, millet, teff, quinoa, amaranth, sorghum and dent (field) corn.  It will also grind spices, lentils and dry beans (pinto, red, garbanzo, kidney, etc.).  What you don’t want to use it for is herbs, oilseeds (flax, sesame), popcorn or fibrous materials.  As for the flaker, it’s ideal for rolling all softer grains.

The Komo Duett 100 in Use

So how does the Komo Duett 100 work?  It works fantastically well, and just as importantly, it’s fantastically easy to use.  If you’ve ever ground coffee, then you know exactly how the Komo mill works.  First, you fill the Komo’s hopper with your grain of choice.  We’ll use wheat as an example.  Once you’ve filled the wheat, you turn the mill on, and voila, the wheat is ground.  Depending on the type of flour you need, whether coarse or fine, you can rotate the adjustable grind setting, giving you a grind as fine as pastry flour up to a relatively coarse grind.  As a side note, for some grains, I’ve found it’s better to turn the Duett on first, then add the grain for milling.

Komo Duett 100 Grain Mill grains

Once the wheat is ground, you can then choose to use the flour as is, keeping all the bran and germ and their corresponding health benefits.  You can also choose to sift the flour, removing as much or as little bran and germ as you wish.

On the flaker side, it works exactly the same.  Add your wheat, turn the flaker on, and you’ve got an instant, incredibly healthy breakfast.

For me, the Komo translates into an on-demand mill.  It’s rare for me to grind anything in advance.  For example, if I’m making waffles or pancakes for breakfast, my first step is heading to the mill, grinding the exact amount of flour I need, and using this flour in the batter.  It adds maybe a minute to the breakfast making process, with the benefit being the flour is absolutely fresh and retains all of its nutritional benefits.

Baking for the most part is exactly the same.  If I’m baking a couple loaves of bread, I head to the Komo Duett, place a bowl on a scale to weigh the flour as it’s being ground, and grind exactly the amount of flour I need.  The exception is if I’m sifting the flour, in which case I have to account for the weight being removed.  It’s rare for me to grind flour in advance, simply because it’s such a simple task that it adds hardly any time to the baking process.

Taste wise, there’s absolutely no comparison between freshly ground flour and that of the store bought variety (whether you buy flour or already baked bread).  In milling it yourself, you understand what grains should taste like.  Whole wheat breads made from commercial flour taste are typically bland and dry, more reminiscent of cardboard than something you actually enjoy eating.  And for good reason.  Taking out the germ is taking out the healthy fats.

Imagine doing the same thing with meat (we’ll use steak as an example).  The beauty of a well marbled steak is the fat.  It’s what gives the steak it’s gorgeous texture and taste.  Take away the fat, and you’ve completely taken away what makes the steak great.  Wheat is no different.  Take away the germ, and you’re taking away the fats that give the wheat it’s taste and texture attributes.

Keeping the germ, freshly milled wheat takes on a completely different perspective.  Bread is so much more flavorful, with a distinctly nutty taste, and the bland, dry texture is gone.  The same is true for pancakes, waffles, or anything else you use flour in.  You’ll experience entirely new tastes in virtually everything that you eat, with the added benefit that it’s now loaded with additional vitamins and minerals.

The Komo Duett 100 Conclusion

If I have one regret about the Komo Duett 100, it’s that I didn’t purchase it sooner.  As an avid home chef with a growing family, I’ve come to analyze everything that I eat.  I want my food to taste as good as possible, but I also want it to be as healthy as possible.

You are what you eat, and for most, bread in one form or another is an integral part of daily life.  After learning more about the state of commercial bread making and flour processing, I decided the only way to truly gain the health benefits inherent to grain was to mill it myself.  I control the quality of wheat that I purchase, and I control it’s nutritional benefits.  And the best part?  How easy the Komo Duett 100 makes it to do so.

By adding a minute or two onto whatever it is I’m baking, I’m getting 100% of the grain’s nutrients.  Not only that, I’m opening up a world of new tastes in everything I prepare.  Bread tastes incredible, waffles and pancakes taste incredible… everything I make with flour takes on an entirely new dimension.

Do you want to know why grains have been the primary staple food for thousands of years?  Purchase a grain mill, grind your own grain, and you’ll find out.  It is, in no simpler terms, the perfect food – the basis for cuisines across the world.  With a Komo mill, you’re not just eating grains, you’re eating grains as they were meant to be eaten, with their full flavor and nutritional value in tact.

To learn more about Komo mill as well as the Komo Duett 100 in particular, head over to Pleasant Hill Grain, the U.S. distributor for Komo mills.  The current pricing for the Komo Duett 100 is $859, which includes shipping.  While you’re there, you can also see the full lineup of Komo mills along with the full specs of each, as well as various accessories that can accompany Komo mills.  Once you purchase a Komo mill, Pleasant Hill Grain also offers a huge variety of grains and other baking equipment, allowing you to experience a world of new baking without leaving the house.

All-Clad Copper-Core Cookware

All-Clad Copper Core cookware blends the benefits of copper heating with the ease-of-use of stainless steel

If you’re looking for the ultimate gift for the foodie in your life, there is nothing greater than a glistening new set of cookware.  And if that foodie is serious about cooking, you really only have two cookware options:  stainless steel or copper.  Both have their advantages, but today we’re going to be bringing you the best of the stainless steel variety.

While I’ve used my fair share of stainless steel cookware, there’s none that’s been able to rival All-Clad’s Copper-Core.  Featuring an exceptionally unique five-ply construction, All-Clad’s Copper-Core feature… you guessed it… a layer of copper in the center, followed by an inner and outer layer of aluminum, and finally, an inner and outer layer of stainless steel.  Why the copper core you ask?  Because copper offers quite simply the best heat conductivity and responsiveness of any material during cooking.  In the real world, this means that hotspots in your cookware are eliminated, and furthermore, any adjustments you make to the cooking temperature translate to your food much, much quicker.

Thanks to All-Clad Copper-Core’s unique design, however, you gain many of the advantages of copper, without having to spend the extra amount for all copper construction.  In addition, All-Clad’s stainless steel exterior has two key advantages over traditional copper cookware.  First, the highly polished stainless steel exterior is signficantly easier to take care of than a copper exterior, and secondly, if you cook using induction technology, All-Clad’s new Copper-Core line is fully compatible with induction heating.

Having used All-Clad Copper Core for the past several months, I have to tell you, if you’re considering new stainless steel cookware, you won’t find any better.  I personally own four pieces:  the 6-quart saute pan, the 12-inch fry pan, the 7-quart stock pot and the 3-quart sauce pan, and all vastly outperform any stainless steel cookware I’ve used previously.  The heating is incredibly uniform, with hotspots completely eliminated, and variations to cooking temperatures occur significantly quicker with the All-Clad than any other stainless I’ve used.  In other words, the copper core lives up to its stated benefits, and it does so exceptionally well.  As for the subject of food sticking, with proper knowledge of using stainless steel cookware (proper temperature, use of oil, etc.), sticking is nonexistent.  I’ve made a wide assortment of foods with my All-Clad, including eggs and omelets, and the All-Clad perform as well as any non-stock products I’ve used.  When deglazing, the All-Clad’s again excel, with fond being removed easily to the point the cookware virtually cleans itself.  Another design element that I absolutely love are the rolled edges, which in addition to ensuring tight-fitting lids, also make pouring remarkably easy.

In terms of price, All-Clad Copper Core costs more than traditional stainless steel cookware but less than traditional copper cookware, with a seven-piece set currently selling on Amazon for about $750.  It’s the perfect price point, really, as All-Clad’s Copper Core are the perfect mix between stainless steel and full copper cookware.  If you’re looking for the best stainless steel cookware on the planet – cookware that will last a lifetime – this is it… it really is fantastic.  To learn more about All-Clad Copper Core’s features and to see the full list of available pieces, you can learn more at the official All-Clad website or buy now from Amazon.com
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