Festool Kapex Miter Saw and Cleantex Dust Extractor

Festool brings German engineering and technology to the world of tools with their Kapex Miter Saw and Cleantex Dust Collection System

Let me get straight to the point.  If you’re a man, you owe it to yourself to build things.  Look around and take inventory of the things in your life.  Chances are, most of it was built by other people.  I realized it about five years ago when having dinner with a nieghbor, who also happened to be a heart surgeon.  He took me on a tour of his home, which was phenomenally gorgeous.  The millwork was intricate, ornate, and unlike anything I’d seen.  The detail was just stunning.  When I asked him who had done it, he told me he did.

The obvious question was “aren’t you a surgeon?  Isn’t that a little risky working with tools that could potentially end your career?”  He told me he never worried about it – that it kept him sharp.  He then took me to his garage and workshop where he showed me his tool collection.  I’d never used anything other than a few basic power tools, so needless to say most of it was new to me.  A few demonstrations later, and I was hooked.  The entire concept of woodworking – taking raw materials and converting them into something beautiful and precise – struck a cord with me.  Over the next year, my neighbor taught me the intricacies of woodworking – showing me the tools and techniques needed to complete various projects – and helping me build a solid base on which I could expand my woodworking skills.

Five years later, and I’m still in love with woodworking.  As a hobby, there’s nothing better than being able to craft something entirely yourself, and take pride in the work and effort that you put into it.  And from a quality standpoint, I thoroughly believe that I can rival the work of those that do it professionally, and in most cases beat it.  I’m not saying it to brag; I’m saying it to point out the fact that with patience and the right set of tools, you too can craft incredible things.

So in your quest for tools, where do you start?  In a word:  Festool.  Festool is a German brand that crafts tools unlike anyone else.  They offer a range of tools for virtually any task you need to complete, and they do it by blending cutting edge technology with impeccable German build quality.  Their tools are perfectly built, incredibly precise, and their dust collection is the best in the world.  Simply put, you can’t buy better tools than those offered by Festool.

I own numerous Festool products, but the two I’m going to talk about today are the perfect introduction for those of you that are either new or already enjoy woodworking:  the Festool Kapex Miter Saw and Cleantex Dust Extractor.  The two work together to offer an incredible amount of wood cutting functionality in the most dust-free environment possible.  They’re key tools in anyone’s woodworking arsenal, which makes them the perfect introduction to the Festool brand.

Festool Kapex Miter Saw blade up

Festool Kapex Miter Saw in chop position

Festool Kapex Miter Saw

No matter what you’re working on, whether it’s a making a picture frame, installing moldings, or building a cabinet or furniture, a miter saw is a staple in a woodworking shop, and the Festool Kapex Miter Saw offers more functionality than any other miter saw on the market.  Its sliding compound design offers a 50 and 60 degree miter range (left + right) and a 47 degree bevel range (left + right).  But it isn’t the range of the Festool Kapex that’s special; it’s the ease by which you can make and fine tune the cuts.

Festool Kapex Miter Saw handle

Festool Kapex Miter Saw miter gauge

For straight cuts, a latch behind the motor locks the Kapex in fixed position, allowing simple and repetitive chop cuts up to 4 3/4-inch high.  To make a miter cut, a precise and easy to read miter gauge makes it simple to select the correct angle, more so than any miter saw I’ve used.  Whereas other miter gauges make it difficult to fine tune the angle, the markings on the Kapex are precise enough to let you pick an angle down to a single degree.

Festool Kapex Miter Saw bevel gauge

Festool Kapex Miter Saw bevel gauge

And for bevel cuts, the precision continues.  There’s a bevel lock and adjustment on the back of the saw that lets you choose from several bevel options (45 degree left / 0 right, 45 degree both ways and 47 degrees both ways).  Once you’ve picked an option, you can tilt the saw to the correct angle, and even better, you can then fine tune the angle down to a half degree with a twist knob handle on the front of the saw.  It’s a completely stepless adjustment that offers incredible precision, and makes fine-tuning the Kapex bevel cuts both intuitive and simple.  Add in dual laser lines that show you exactly where the cut is going to be made, and you’ve got the ultimate precision wood-cutting weapon.

I’ve owned and used several other miter saws, and nothing has come close to the ease-of-use and accuracy of the Festool.  I only wish I had used the Festool first, as it would have saved me from many of the problems caused by using inferior tools.

Festool Kapex Miter Saw guide rails and laser

Festool Kapex Miter Saw front mounted guide rails and dust hood

Another area the Festool Kapex excels at is in the area of dust collection.  Woodworking is inherently dusty, but all Festool tools including the Kapex are designed with dust collection in mind.  When used with the Cleantex (which I’ll discuss shortly) and a dust hood, the Kapex can capture up to 91 percent of the sawdust generated.  For anyone working indoors, it’s a lifesaver.

So what does all this mean in real world use?  Simply put, it means the Kapex is the perfect miter saw, no matter what your skill level.  When I started woodworking, I started with a relatively inexpensive 10-inch miter saw, then switched to two different 12-inch sliding compound miter saws.  Each had a different set of advantages.  My first saw was easy to carry, but lacked power and functionality.  The 12-inch saws had a larger cut capacity, but also suffered from inaccuracy and blade deflection (not to mention, they weighed as much as a small car).  With the Festool, you’re getting the best of everything.  The real world cut quality is brilliant, to the point I don’t think you can get any better.  Because it notes a 10-inch blade design and magnesium alloy base, the Kapex is lightweight enough to be easily carried, but its intelligent design gives it a larger cut capacity than when compared to other 10-inch miter saws.  And as already noted, the precision by which you can adjust the Kapex is unlike any other saw available, eliminating any worry that saw is to blame for any inaccuracies in your work.  With my other saws, it was common to have to re-cut pieces due to the saws’ inaccuracy; with the Kapex, any problems can be directly attributed to me.  I’ve learned that tools should be accurate enough to do exactly what I want them to do, down to even the most minute details.  And with the Kapex, that’s exactly what you get.

Whether you’re a new or finely aged woodworker, once you’ve tried and grown comfortable with the Festool Kapex Miter Saw, you’ll never switch to anything else.

Festool Cleantex Dust Extractor

Festool Cleantex Dust Exctractor

Festool Cleantex Dust Exctractor

The Festool Cleantex Dust Extractor is the perfect companion to the Kapex Miter Saw (and any other Festool tools), as the entire Festool tool lineup is built with dust collection in mind.  The Cleantex family is available in numerous sizes (I opted for the Cleantex 26, which notes a 6.9 gallon capacity), but there are five size options in total ranging from 2.6 to 12.7 gallons.  As already noted, when used with the Kapex Miter Saw and dust hood, the Cleantex captures up to 91 percent of sawdust.

In all honesty, however, the Cleantex is one of those things you buy and don’t have to think about, as it works so well.  Once you’ve plugged in the Cleantex, you then plug your Kapex into the Cleantex and attach the dust collection hose.  Set the Cleantex to auto, and dust collection is automatic from the second your Kapex miter saw is turned on to a few seconds after it shuts off.  The self-cleaning bag and Hepa filter ensure an ample amount of suction, and the variable suction ensures efficiency no matter which Festool tools you’re using.

Festool Cleantex switch

Festool Cleantex switch

If you’re using the Cleantex in a work environment, the top of the Cleantex can also hold Festool Systainers (the company’s tool storage containers) as well as keep the cord and dust collection hose neatly managed, creating a cleaner, less cluttered workspace.  Finally, if you use the Cleantex in a wet environment, the CT will shut off automatically when full thanks to Level Stop technology.  I personally haven’t tried it for water clean up, but for dust collection with the Kapex, it’s worked wonderfully.

My advice:  if you’re purchasing any Festool products, add a Cleantex to the order.  You’ll get a deal when you bundle the tool, and more importantly, you’ll get a cleaner, healthier work environment.

You can learn more about the full family of Festool products at the Festool USA website, or head directly to the Kapex Miter Saw and Cleantex Dust Extractor pages.

 

Festool Track Saws

The Festool TS 55 REQ and TS 75 EQ Track Saws redefine how you cut larger pieces of wood and sheet goods

A few weeks ago I told you about the Festool Kapex Miter Saw, and my passion for woodworking. I didn’t know it at the time, but it would go on to become our most read Lifestyle story ever written. Clearly your love of German engineering extends to tools as well.

After I published the article, I was inundated with questions about the article and about woodworking in general, so we’ve decided to take a more in-depth look at the Festool range of tools, primarily in the sector of woodworking. If you enjoyed the Kapex article, then stay tuned over the coming months, because I have more looks at Festool tools that you’re going to love. First up: a look at Festool Track Saws.

Festool Track Saw Overview

Before I tell you about Festool Track Saws, let me give you a quick synopsis of woodworking for those of you new to the craft. Simply put, woodworking can be broken down into two key tasks: cutting wood, and joining wood. Almost everything you do in woodworking involves cutting and joining. That’s it. What you’ll discover, however, is that despite only needing to do two things, there’s a huge assortment of ways to cut and join wood. And there’s where the challenge comes in. While there are many ways to cut and join, what are the best ways to cut and join?

To arrive at the answer to this question, step one is identifying what exactly you’re going to be cutting. In my shop, I usually cut wood in two key areas: sheet goods (like plywood), and smaller boards. For cutting smaller boards, moldings and anything involving angle (or miter) cuts, the Kapex is superb, as I’ve already detailed. But when it comes to cutting larger sheet goods, a different tool is needed. Which brings me to my statement above. There are many ways to cut sheet goods, but what’s the best way? Conventionally, many people use a table saw. Table saws have more than enough power to cut plywood and they deliver a clean cut. The problem, however, is the actual act of cutting. Cutting plywood on a table saw involves lifting a massive piece of wood onto the table saw, and then having enough outfeed support to fully move the piece through the blade. It’s an exceptionally challenging task, as it requires a huge amount of space and strong arms to match.

The second main option is a circular saw. Circular saws are fine for situations where precision and cut quality aren’t vital. The problem, however, is that circular saws don’t cut in a straight line without some type of fence attached to the sheet good, and their cut quality isn’t on par with that of a table saw. To remedy this, many people break down sheet goods with a circular saw, then move the piece to a table saw for the final cut. This is what I did, and it works adequately from a quality standpoint. From a time standpoint, however, it’s very time consuming, and it still requires a table saw with large outfeed support.

Festool TS55 and TS75 Side Comparison

Festool TS55 and TS75 Side Comparison

Which brings us to the Festool Track Saw family. Festool Track Saws eliminate virtually all of the challenges that traditionally accompany cutting large sheet goods. They look and operate in many ways like a circular saw, but with two key differences. First, unlike free moving circular saws, Festool Track Saws ride smoothly on a guide rail, ensuring perfectly straight cuts with every pass. Secondly, Festool’s track saws offer plunge cutting functionality, meaning you can start and end a cut anywhere you want on your workpiece, still with perfect accuracy. And the best part? With the right blade, Festool’s Track Saws offer cut quality rivaling that of a conventional, much larger table saw. So not only is it easier to break down sheet goods with Festool Track Saws than any other method, the cut quality is on par or better than any other method as well.

So how exactly do Festool Track Saws work? In its simplest form, it’s simply a case of connecting the dots. Let’s say you have a 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood, and you need to it be 3′ x 8′. Simply measure and mark 3′ on each side of the sheet, then place the rail so the edge is touching each mark. Plunge the track saw into the workpiece, run your Festool down the guide rail, and you have a perfectly straight 3′ x 8′ sheet of plywood with cut quality rivaling that of a table saw. That’s it. If you were expecting something more difficult, I’m sorry to disappoint.

Festool TS75 EQ Cutting

Festool TS75 EQ Cutting

There is another operating difference, however, and it’s something that once you’ve used, will be virtually impossible to accomplish any other way. How do you cut tapers? Let’s say you’re installing a cabinet, and you need to scribe a piece of wood to the wall. On top the piece needs to be 14 inches wide, but the bottom needs to be 15-1/4 inches wide? On a table saw, you’d either have to mark the line and attempt to free hand the cut without the fence in place, or make a time consuming jig to make the angled cut. With a Festool Track Saw, however, it’s still a case of connecting the dots. Mark the top width, mark the bottom width, place your guide rail touching both marks, and make the cut. You have a quick and accurate cut exactly on track with your scribe line. There’s simply no quicker way to do it. Want to make tapered legs for a table or chair? Same thing. From a ease of cut standpoint, it’s revolutionary.

In truth, the first time I used Festool’s Track Saw it was one of those “Eureka” moments, as in “why did it take me so long to buy this?” They say Festool Track Saws are most people’s first purchase into the Festool tool lineup, and when you use it for the first time, you’ll understand why.

I’ll talk more about the Festool Track Saws real world use in a minute, but let me first tell you about your two Festool track saw options. First up is the Festool TS 75 EQ track saw, a 1600W beast with 2-3/4″ cut capacity. Your second option is the Festool TS 55 REQ, the smaller sibling to the TS 75 with a 1200W motor and 1-15/16″ cut capacity. I own both, and I love both, so if you can’t decide, do what I did. Buy both. After owning the pair, however, I’ll share my thoughts about each with you, so if you only buy one, you’ll know which one to select.

Festool TS75 EQ

Festool TS75 EQ

Festool TS 75 EQ

It’s the age old adage – you can never have enough power. And for the power hungry among you, the Festool TS 75 EQ doesn’t disappoint. It’s the most powerful Festool Track Saw option, with a 1600W / 13 Amp motor, 2-15/16″ cutting depth, and 8-1/4″ blade. And with the power comes weight, with the TS 75 EQ weighing in at 13.6 lbs. I deliberated quite a bit when it came time to purchase my first Festool Track Saw, and when the dust settled, the TS 75 was my top pick. I didn’t want to worry about having enough power, or enough cut capacity, so the TS 75 made sense.

Now that I’ve used both saws extensively, however, I can tell you the the Festool TS 75 EQ is better suited to more specific situations, and if you don’t need it for those situations, the TS 55 REQ may be the better option. But for certain tasks, you simply can’t beat the TS 75.

From a functional standpoint, both Festool Track Saws are virtually identical. They both use the same family of guide rails, they both allow quick and precise tool-less depth of cut control, and they both offer bevel cutting functionality directly on the guide line. Furthermore, they both offer exceptional dust control, an integrated riving knife to prevent kickback, and variable speed MMC Electronics to let you control the saw’s speed depending on the material you’re cutting. Blade changes are quick and easy thanks to Festool’s FastFix blade change system, and they both include a removable splinter guard, ensuring glue-up ready cuts.

So when do I use the TS 75 EQ? Simple: when I need the highest possible cut capacity and power. If you’re in the habit of frequently cutting thick hardwood (like doors, for example), or you want to take a piece of raw material and convert it into a finely cut piece of lumber, the Festool TS 75 EQ is simply second to none. I’ve used it to trim my front entrance door, I’ve used to to make wood flooring from a larger piece of rough wood, and the TS 75 simply excels at anything you place in front of it.

Festool TS75 EQ Front

Festool TS75 EQ Front

There’s another key area in which the TS 75 EQ excels, and it’s in the area of volume. If you’re a cabinet builder, for example, the TS 75 EQ’s power and depth of cut lets you stack sheet goods and make perfect cuts in a single pass. It ensures perfectly sized cabinet boxes in half the time, which is a huge time saver if you’re building a large collection of cabinets. The same holds true for any other applications where you’re cutting a large volume of sheet goods. Stack them, and the TS75 has no problem powering through it all.

There is one caveat: when using the TS 75 EQ (and TS 55 REQ for that matter), always ensure you’re using the right blade for the type of work you’re doing. Because it is such a workhorse when cutting through rougher stock, the TS 75 ships with a 36-tooth blade, great for general purpose cutting but not the best option when cutting a finish sheet of plywood. When using a higher tooth blade on finish grade plywood, however, cut quality is virtually indistinguishable between the TS 75 and TS 55.

With all these positives, you may think I’m telling you to buy the Festool TS 75 EQ and be done with it. And I assure you that if you do, you’ll be happy. But after purchasing the TS 55 REQ, there’s a flip side to the TS 75, and it’s the size. I love the TS 75’s power and cut capacity, and if you plan on cutting thicker stock or do a high volume of cutting and want to cut multiple sheets in a single pass, you can’t beat it. But in situations where I have the choice of using either the TS 55 or the TS 75, I always opt for the TS 55. Why? Because it’s smaller and it weighs less (9.92 lbs vs. the TS 75’s 13.6 lbs, to be precise). That’s it. It’s not complicated, it’s just a little lighter to handle.

Which brings us to the Festool TS 55 REQ.

Festool TS55 REQ Track Saw

Festool TS55 REQ Track Saw

Festool TS 55 REQ

Now that I’ve familiarized you with the TS 75, let’s look at the Festool TS 55 REQ. Virtually everything about the TS 75 applies to the TS 55, except it has a 1200 W / 10 amp motor and a 1-15/16 inch cut capacity when on the rail. Other differences include a micro adjustment feature on the depth of cut setting, and a bevel range from -1 degree to 47 degrees (the TS 75 bevels from 0 – 45 degrees). I’ve never used the -1 degree bevel feature, so for me, it’s a wash – I typically stay with the 0 – 45 degree range anyways.

Accessory wise, both saws use the same Festool gadgetry, meaning dust collection hoses, the removable plug-it cord, and rails are interchangeable between the two saws.

Functionally, they operate and do exactly the same thing. Both saws begin with the blade elevated behind the base, and cuts begin with a plunging motion into the workpiece. This is a huge advantage over circular saws, as it allows you to accurately cut out areas in things you would never try with a circular saw. I recently installed a new wood floor, for example, and the TS55 REQ allowed me to cut out a perfectly straight area for a border after the floor had already been laid. It’s something that would have been impossible with any other saw, and it saved me a huge amount of time as opposed to trying to cut each piece of flooring to exactly the right length. Another strength of both saws is dust collection. When operated with Festool’s CT dust extractor, dust is virtually non-existent. You can easily operate both track saws in an occupied home with a Festool dust extractor with no complaints from your wife (or the homeowner). Compared to my table saw, the difference is night and day.

One thing I’ve found regarding the TS 55 and TS 75 is that the power difference is less of a factor than I originally thought, depending on your use. If you’re cutting a large amount of hardwood that relies on ample power, then yes, the TS 75 is a better bet. But if you’re remodeling your home and only need to cut one door and you’re worried about not having enough power, simply make the cut in multiple passes. As long as the guide rail stays in position (i.e., make sure you clamp it first), your cut will be exactly on the same cut line with each pass, so you can compensate for less power by simply making multiple cuts. It takes longer, but if you’re only cutting one or two doors, the time lost is inconsequential.

Festool TS55 REQ Front Depth Gauge

Festool TS55 REQ Front Depth Gauge

As for ease of use, the TS 55 REQ is easier to use, but only because of the smaller size and weight. Both saws use the same pair of screw locks to tighten to the guide rail, eliminating any play on the rail while still letting the saws glide smoothly down the track. Both saws offer glue-up ready cut quality with the right blade, and both saws let you cut incredibly close to walls, which is perfect if you need to trim wood flooring after installation.

When comparing both saws, what it really boils down to is cutting depth. If you need more cutting depth, then the TS 75 EQ is your saw. I hate having to flip a piece of wood over, repositioning the guide rail, and making a second pass. But if you don’t need to cut anything thicker than 1 15/16″, then I personally would opt for the TS 55 REQ, simply due to comfort and lighter weight. And if you still can’t decide, do as I did, and buy both. They’re incredibly great saws, and can you really ever have too many tools?

Whichever you choose, both saws come packed in one of Festool’s awesome new Systainers, which makes keeping your workshop neat and organized far easier than any other tool cases. Both saws also include a guide rail (55″ for the TS 55, and 75″ for the TS 75), and both are backed by Festool’s unique 3 year warranty, which includes free shipping to and from the repair center should you need to send them in. And if you do opt for either of Festool’s track saws, be sure to check out the Festool Owner’s Group and Festool’s YouTube channel, which are both really great resources to learn different tips and tricks when using these and other Festool tools for your next project.  Lastly, Festool loves giving away new tools, so if you’re feeling lucky, be sure to check out their sweepstakes website, where you can sign up to win new tools each month (right now they’re giving away a new Festool TS 55 REQ Track Saw and a CT 26 HEPA Dust Extractor).

You can learn more about the Festool TS 75 EQ and the TS 55 REQ at the official Festool USA website.

Festool Routers

Festool makes routing effortless, offering users an unmatched level of control and precision with silky smooth cuts

When it comes to buying tools, the easiest way to decide which tools you need isn’t to look at the tools, but instead to look at the projects you want to complete. For my Festool purchases, whether the Kapex, the track saws, the Domino joiners, or the MFT/3, I always looked at what I wanted to create, and then found the Festool that would help me best accomplish the task.

So when it came time to build some new cabinets for a kitchen (the first time I’ve ever built kitchen cabinets, by the way), the first thing I did was study the process to better understand what I would need. For the most part, I already had the Festool tools I needed to accomplish the task, but the one tool I didn’t have was a Festool router. The problem was that to build cabinets, the router is an integral part of the setup, as the cabinet construction method I chose uses a series of dados and rabbets to join the plywood panels.

The solution? I bought the Festool OF 1400 router, edge guide and guide stop, the three components that were necessary to make perfect rabbets and dados anywhere I needed them.

And while I could tell you the story ends here, this purchase led me down a slippery slope of Festool routing goodness, subsequently leading me to add both another router (the OF 1010) as well as the Festool router table.

The end result? I now have a Festool router setup that not only lets me build kitchen cabinets, but also one that lets me route nearly anything I need. I’m going to save my thoughts on the Festool router tables for a second article, and instead share my thoughts on both the Festool OF 1400 and the Festool OF 1010 today. If you’re new to routers or you already own a router from another brand, you’ll hopefully find it insightful.

First up, the Festool OF 1400.

Festool OF 1400 Router side

Festool OF 1400 Router

Festool OF 1400 Review

I’ll be honest, when it’s time to purchase a new tool, I spend hardly any time researching tool brands, simply because I’ve always been happy with what I’ve purchased from Festool. So when it came time to purchase a router, the majority of my time wasn’t spent researching brands, but rather researching which Festool router to buy. Festool makes four routers, ranging from the smallest MFK trim router up to the biggest OF 2200, with the OF 1010 and the OF 1400 falling in between. My research showed me that both are great for handheld work (meaning outside of a router table), with the Festool OF 1400’s added power offering more flexibility for future projects. It was this flexibility that led me to pick the OF 1400 first, and for anyone choosing a single router, it’s the router I would recommend.

Getting technical for a second, the OF 1400 offers 1400 watts of power and accepts 1/2″, 1/4″ or 8 mm bits, while MMC electronics provide constant speed under load. What this means in the real world is that the OF 1400 accepts any router bit you’ll need, and its motor can handle the majority of your routing tasks. It’s basically the must-have router in the Festool lineup.

So what makes the Festool OF 1400 router so great? It’s an answer that will vary for everyone that uses it, as there’s a huge range of tasks you can accomplish with a router, and I’m far from the most advanced router user. But for me, what makes the OF 1400 so great is simply how well it helped me accomplish the tasks I needed it for. I borrowed another highly regarded router from my father-in-law for the sake of comparison, and I can tell you there really is no comparison. There wasn’t a single element of the other router that I preferred to the Festool, as the Festool is simply better engineered and significantly easier to use.

Festool OF 1400 Router side

Festool OF 1400 Router

Running through the routing process quickly to show you what I mean, step one is inserting the router bit. Unlike many routers that require two wrenches to loosen or tighten the collet, the OF 1400 utilizes a ratcheting spindle, requiring only a single wrench. This may not seem like that big of a deal, but when making numerous bit changes, it’s something that you will come to love, as it not only speeds up the process, but also saves you from the almost guaranteed smashed knuckles you’ll experience with two wrenches.

Once the bit is in, step two is attaching the power cord and dust collection. The OF 1400 uses the same dust collection hose and Plug-It power cord found on the rest of the Festool family of tools, meaning attaching it to your dust extractor takes only a second when switching between the router and other tools. And like other Festool tools, the dust collection is superb. Not only is there a dust collection port that attaches to the top of the OF 1400, but there’s also a swiveling chip collector for when you’re routing edges, further enhancing dust collection. Compared to the other router I used, there was no absolutely no comparison in terms of dust collection – the OF 1400 was at an entirely different level. For me, the dust collection alone is enough to justify purchasing the OF 1400.

The final step before routing is setting the plunge depth of the router (which you can set up to 2-3/4″). It’s somewhat difficult to explain without actually having the router in front of you, but there are three depth-stop turrets on the OF 1400 that you can select for easy, tool-free step cutting. Once you’ve picked the appropriate turret, a precision depth adjustment knob offers the flexibility to adjust in 1/256″ increments, with detents for each 1/10 mm. While initially it seemed like an odd design for setting the depth, once you’ve grown accustomed to it you’ll appreciate how quick and easy it is to change the router’s depth in a precise and repeatable fashion. And once your depth is set, locking the router at the plunge depth is accomplished by rotating the large, easy-to-grip knob, which again is both simple and incredibly intuitive. Compared to the other router that used multiple bases and poor plunge depth settings, the Festool OF 1400 was leaps and bounds ahead of its competitor in terms of ease-of-use and precision.

Festool OF 1400 Router with guide rail

Festool OF 1400 Router with edge guide

Once set up, the final step is the routing itself. And when it came time to route my first rabbet, the OF 1400 was brilliant. The cut was smooth, the OF 1400 felt perfect in my hand, and the entire routing process went perfectly. Switching to the other router didn’t feel nearly as good, as the router felt out of balance and the cut just felt more strained. In a word, the OF 1400 just felt effortless when compared to the other router. Over the next few days I used both routers for various other routing tasks including more rabbets, dados and decorative edges, and my sentiment always remained the same – the Festool OF 1400 was easier to handle and always felt better. Its superior balance meant I didn’t make the mistakes that I did with the other router, and overall the Festool simply outperformed its competitor. Before using the Festool I wondered whether it could really be that much better than other routers, but after using the OF 1400, I can say that unequivocally it is. After using both, there’s absolutely no way I’d trade the Festool, irregardless of price.

My advice: if you need a router and don’t know which one to get, get the Festool OF 1400. It’s the best all-around router you’ll find, bar none.

Festool OF 1010 front guide rail

Festool OF 1010 Router

Festool OF 1010 Review

So with my affinity for the Festool OF 1010, you may be wondering why I also purchased the OF 1010. The answer: after purchasing the Festool router table, I mounted the OF 1400 to it, so rather than having to always remove it, I opted for the OF 1010 for smaller routing tasks. Did I need it? No. But now that I have it, I can tell you that depending on your needs, it’s a great router that will also let you accomplish a huge variety of routing tasks.

The biggest difference between the OF 1010 and the OF 1400 is the size. It’s a little bit smaller, a little bit more maneuverable, and is the perfect size if you’re handheld routing with bits requiring either 1/4″ or 8mm collets. If you need a 1/2″ collet you need the OF 1400, but for any bits requiring 1/4″ collet size, the OF 1010’s 1010 watts offer enough power to deliver perfectly clean cuts every time in a package that’s both maneuverable and really well balanced.

The best part of the OF 1010 is that it operates as smoothly as the OF 1400, with all of the intuitive features still in place. It uses the same easy-to-hold barrel grip, allowing single hand routing, while a plunge depth of up to 2 1/8″ is again controlled by three rotating turrets and a micro-adjustable depth control knob. Like the OF 1400, the OF 1010 is adjustable in 1/256″ increments, while the OF 1010’s plunge depth is locked in place by the same easy-to-grip plunge lock. What’s great about the setting the depth is that if you’re using the OF 1010 and the OF 1400 together, they both operate the same way, making the thought process effortless when switching between the two. Further similarities with the OF 1400 are shared Plug-It power cords and dust collection hoses, making tool changes quick and painless, along with a single wrench bit change.

Festool OF 1010 router side

Festool OF 1010 Router

In use, you may be wondering how well the OF 1010 handles compared to the OF 1400, and for me, I find the OF 1010 to be superb, much like the OF 1400. Its lighter weight and small size make some routing tasks, such as routing things in awkward positions, easier to accomplish, and for extended use the OF 1010’s weight is excellent, leading to less fatigue when compared to its bigger brother. What the two share is the same silky smooth routing operation, with cuts feeling effortless and always under control. I would say that for me, even if my OF 1400 wasn’t mounted in a table most of the time, I would still reach for the OF 1010 if I was using a bit requiring a 1/4″ collet, due simply to its smaller size. And while I’ve yet to use it for dovetail joints, the OF 1010’s lighter weight and maneuverability seem well adapted for use in a routing template guide compared to a larger router.

My advice: if you’re looking for a lighter weight alternative to the OF 1400 or the majority of your work uses router bits requiring a 1/4″ collet, the OF 1010 is the perfect option, offering ample power and superb maneuverability.

Festool OF 1400 Router with guide rail closeup

Festool OF 1400 Router guide rail

Festool Router Accessories

No matter which router you get, you’ll almost certainly need accessories to go with them. For both my OF 1400 and OF 1010 routers I opted for the edge guide and guide stops, for the simple fact that both were integral in helping me route rabbets and dados for my kitchen cabinets.

I would say that for almost everyone, the edge guide is a must have accessory for your router. Not only does it increase stability when routing edges, it also allows precise fine-tuning of your cuts, which for me translated into perfect rabbets the first time I used the router. As for the guide stops, they allow you attach your Festool router to Festool’s guide rails, letting you route perfectly straight lines anywhere you need them, which again was exactly what I needed for my kitchen cabinet build.

From there, the list of router accessories is extensive, and will vary depending on your projects and needs. Edging guides, trammels for routing circles, the LR32 hole drilling template, and many more accessories all extend the functionality of your router to accomplish anything you need, and you can find them all on the Festool website.

You can learn more about the Festool family of routers and accessories at the official Festool USA website, or learn more about the Festool OF 1400 and Festool OF 1010 directly. Also be sure to check out both routers in the photo gallery below.

Festool TSC 55

The Festool TSC 55 track saws offers the ultimate in speed and precision wood cutting without the cords

As an avid Festool fan, this week is a very exciting week, as Festool USA has introduced a series of awesome new battery operated tools that up until now haven’t been available in America. And one of the tools that I personally couldn’t wait to get my hands on was the Festool TSC 55 track saw, a cordless version of their already awesome TS 55 REQ track saw that I use on a huge variety of projects for my home.

If you caught my previous article on Festool’s corded track saw lineup, then much of this article is going to sound similar. But whether you’re new to Festool or already own one of the other Festool track saws, I have to tell you that the new TSC 55 opens up a new world of flexibility. It takes everything that’s great about the traditional track saw and adds in a new level of freedom, letting you cut wood precisely and quickly anywhere you need to.

Before I tell you about the Festool TSC 55 specifically, however, let me give you a quick primer on Festool’s entire track saw family.

Festool TSC 55 on guide rail

Festool Track Saw Overview

No matter what your woodworking experience, if you decide to undertake a project around your home, whether it’s building a piece of furniture, customizing a closet, making a repair to your home, etc., chances are you’re going to have to cut sheet goods (think a sheet of plywood, melamine or the like). But as you’ll discover, it’s very difficult to get an accurate cut on such a large sheet of material. Table saws are one option, offering optimal cut quality, but maneuvering such a big sheet can be difficult and dangerous. A circular is another option, offering easier maneuverability, with disadvantages being innacuracy and poor cut quality.

Neither option is ideal, which brings me to the third option: Festool track saws. They take everything that’s good about the prior two methods – easy maneuverability and superb cut quality – but they combine them in a single, easy-to-use and incredibly safe package. Simply put, there’s no easier, safer or more accurate way to cut sheet goods. Lay the Festool track wherever you need to make a cut, place the Festool track saw onto the track and make the cut. It’s as simple as that. The cuts are smooth and splinter free, there’s no need to maneuver large sheets to make a cut, and you can make any cut you need to, whether it’s a straight cut, tapered cut or mitered cut.

Up until now, however, there was one caveat: to use a Festool track saw, you needed power and a dust collector (assuming you didn’t want to cut in a shroud of dust). Festool only offered their track saws in corded models, meaning that to use one, you needed access to a power outlet and you needed to have a dust collector nearby. The Festool TSC 55 changes everything, giving you exactly the same precision and ease-of-use as the corded models but letting you cut the cords completely. You can take it anywhere and use it anywhere, no dust collector or power needed.

So how well does it work and should you get one? Read on to find out.

Festool TSC 55 front

Festool TSC 55 First Look

The reason I’m calling this a first look as opposed to a review is simply because I haven’t spent as long with the TSC 55 as I have with my other track saws. I will say, however, that in the short time I’ve used it, the strengths of the TSC 55 are immediately evident.

Functionally, the cordless TSC 55 and the corded TS 55 REQ are the same. Both saws use the same guide rails, both saws offer 1-15/16″ cut capacity, both saws will give you incredibly clean and accurate cuts equal or better than that of a table saw, and both saws feature the same Festool tech: plunge capabilities with micro adjustable depth setting, spring loaded riving knife, bevel cuts from -1 to 47 degrees, rotating dust port and FastFix blade changing system. What this means is that if you’re trying to decide on which of the two Festool TS 55 track saws to get based on features, you can’t, as they’re both equally great.

Which brings us to the main feature of the Festool TSC 55: the batteries. Unlike the TS 55 REQ that requires a cord and dust collector, the TSC 55 is completely cordless. Power is handled through either one or two Festool 18V / 5.2 Ah batteries, while dust collection is handled by the included dust collection bag (although it can still be used with Festool dust collectors as well). When equipped with one battery, the TSC 55 notes a saw blade speed of 2650 – 3800 rpm, while the blade speed with two batteries ranges from 2650 – 5200 rpm. For the sake of comparison, the corded TS 55 REQ notes a blade speed of 2,000 – 5,200 rpm. In other words, if one saw can cut it, so can the other one. And while I haven’t performed an actual cutting test involving total length of material cut, Festool specs note the ability to cut 100 meters of sheet goods on a single charge, which is a massive amount of material for both diy and professional use.

Festool TSC 55 plunge saw

So what do I think about the TSC 55 and why did I opt for one? For me it’s about convenience. I absolutely love my corded TS 55 REQ, and I would never consider parting with it. It’s a staple in my shop and I’ve used it on countless projects, as it’s one of those truly revolutionary tools. The caveat is that there are times when I’m working on something outside my shop where I wished I could make a quick cut (or cuts), but I have to bring out extension cords and the dust collector just to make them. The TSC 55 completely changes that, giving me in the ultimate in flexibility and speed along with the accuracy and precision I’ve come to love from my other track saws.

When I installed my hardwood flooring, for example, I used my corded track saw to make perfectly precise cuts around the outside of the room so I could add a border. The problem, however, is that I was doing one room at a time, so I had to bring out my track saw, extension cord and dust collection to make only four cuts. The TSC 55 changes that, as tasks like this can be accomplished twice as fast as there’s virtually no setup required – set your track, make your cut and you’re done. I can already tell you that for any projects involving a few cuts, it will become my go-to track saw.

Festool TSC 55 cutting plywood

In addition to the speed savings when needing to make a few quick cuts, the second area that for me was an even bigger selling point was for making cuts on the spot. The first thing I did with my new TSC 55 was take it outside to my garden, where I just completed a series of new raised beds. Every cut I made was accomplished with the TSC 55, and the flexibility of being able to do it on the spot with such accuracy was amazing. While I could have used the corded TS55 REQ, running four extension cords just to make the cuts wasn’t my idea of a fun afternoon. That project alone confirmed I made the right choice in adding the TSC 55 to my tool arsenal. For anyone that works in an area not easily accessible with a power cord, the TSC 55 really is the saw you’ve been waiting for. I have a summer full of outdoor projects already slated for the TSC 55, and I know I’m going to save time and get better results because of it.

Festool TSC 55 Conclusion

Should you get the Festool TSC 55? For me, if I had to choose one saw and all my work was done in my shop near a power supply, the corded Festool TS 55 REQ would be my choice. I love it and couldn’t work without it. If you already own the TS55 REQ and find yourself setting up a dust collector just to make a few cuts on a regular basis, I highly recommend adding the TSC 55 to your collection. The dust collection is still superb, and the speed savings will make you wish you had one a year ago. Lastly, if your work takes you outside on a regular basis or to places where a power supply isn’t easily accessible, I’d make the TSC 55 my first choice. You’re not sacrificing any power or functionality compared to its corded brother, but you’re gaining a tremendous amount of flexibility. Whichever saw you use, it’s going to change the way you work.

To learn more about the Festool TSC 55 and the full lineup of Festool track saws be sure to check out the official Festool website. Pricing for the TSC 55 Basic (which includes the TSC 55 saw, carbide blade, chip collection bag, splinter guard and Systainer) is $465, while you can also opt for the TSC 55 Plus-XL ($725) and TSC 55 Plus-XL-FS ($825), the first of which adds in two batteries and chargers while the second adds in two batteries, two chargers and a 1400mm guide rail.

Festool Domino

The Festool Domino will revolutionize the way you join wood, reinventing mortise and tenon joinery for the 21st century

If you’re a regular reader of eMercedesBenz, you’ve already read my introduction into Festool and their lineup of innovative and well-crafted tools.  If not, you can check out my articles on the Festool Kapex,  Festool Track Saws and Festool MFT/3 Multifunction Table.  But as you may remember, I mentioned that at its core, woodworking can really be broken down to two key tasks:  cutting and joining wood.

When it comes to joining wood, there’s a huge array of options at your disposal:  nailing, screwing, gluing, and a host of other joinery options.  The challenge in joining wood, however, isn’t joining it – it’s picking a joining method that’s both strong enough for the wood’s intended use and one that doesn’t alter the appearance in a negative way.  For many applications, whether it’s constructing a door, constructing cabinets or constructing a piece of furniture, this limits your wood joinery options significantly, as the last thing you want to see is a nail or screw hole on a finely finished piece of furniture.

This leaves you with a few options:  learn to master more complicated, time consuming wood joinery methods (such as mortise and tenon joints), or check out what may be the greatest wood joining method of the 21st century:  the Festool Domino.

Whether you’re new to the Festool Domino or you’ve heard of it and are simply questioning whether it lives up to the hype, I’m here to tell you that simply put, the Festool Domino is a game changer when it comes to joining wood.  The Domino takes the advantages of mortise and tenon joinery (i.e., strong joints with no visible fasteners) and lets you accomplish them with significantly more speed, precision and ease.

So how does the Festool Domino work?  Read on to find out.

Festool Domino and Domino XL comparison front

Festool Domino DF 500 and Domino XL

Festool Domino Overview

The Festool Domino family consists of two models:  the Festool Domino DF 500 and the Festool Domino XL.  As you’ve probably guessed, the Domino DF 500 is the smaller of the two, capable of using Domino tenons ranging from 4mm – 10mm thick.  Its bigger brother, the Domino XL, expands the Domino’s functionality to a larger, more diverse set of wood joining applications, with Domino tenon sizes ranging from 8mm – 14mm thick tenons.

At their core, however, the functionality of both is the same:  pick a Domino tenon for the specific pieces of wood you’re joining, and the Domino’s unique cutting motion creates a perfect mortise to accept it.  Aligning the Domino to your workpiece is both fast and precise, and the mortise is cut in mere seconds.  Both Domino joiners offer a variety of alignment options, and both offer identical ease and speed of use.  Which Domino joiner you use simply depends on the size Domino tenon you’re using.

After using the DF 500 for a few years and more recently acquiring the Domino XL, I can tell you that both have become indispensable in my shop.  Rather than tell you which one to get, I’ll tell you instead how I use both, and how depending on the type of work you do, both have the potential to play a significant role in your wood joining projects.

Festool Domino side

Festool Domino DF 500

Festool Domino DF 500

My first introduction to the Festool Domino system was the Domino DF 500, as the Domino XL wasn’t yet available.  I already owned a biscuit joiner at the time, and from a functionality and ergonomics standpoint, the Domino DF 500 is very similar.  I found, however, that biscuits had far too much play to be used for precisely aligning pieces, and while I never performed an actual strength test, I didn’t feel like they added a significant amount of strength.

I tried the Domino DF 500 on the recommendation of the same friend that introduced me to woodworking, and less than a month later, I had already abandoned and sold my biscuit joiner.  The Domino system took the ease of the biscuit joiner but added in a significantly higher level of precision and strength, which is exactly what I felt was lacking in biscuit joinery.  Since then, I’ve found a huge amount of uses for the Domino that I never would have tried with a biscuit joiner, and I’ve yet to regret my decision.

Festool Domino cutting mortise

Festool Domino cutting mortise

So how does the Festool Domino work?  For anyone with basic woodworking experience, the learning curve is really quite small.  Step one is simply deciding whether or not the Domino is right for your situation.  For me personally, I use the Festool Domino DF 500 any time I want a tight, strong joint with no visible fasteners, typically for interior applications.  I’ve used the DF 500 for joining plywood, wood wall frames, larger moldings, shelving and a variety of furniture projects.  This is going to vary from person to person and what you enjoy building, but I would say from a sizing standpoint, the DF 500 handles probably 80% of the joining tasks that I need.

When creating a Domino joint, there are two primary settings you need to make on the Domino itself (this applies to the Domino XL as well):  the depth of the mortise, and the vertical alignment of the cut.  For the depth setting, you have the option of either centering the Domino tenon so that it rests equally on each side of the joint, or you can offset the tenon so that more of it rests on one side of the joint (which comes in handy for more complex joining tasks).  Changing the depth is simply a case of moving the depth adjustment lever on the side of the Domino, which is incredibly quick and simple.  In addition to the mortise depth, you can also choose to adjust the mortise width from three different settings, creating either tight fitting Domino tenons or mortises that offer two wider levels of flexibility from an alignment standpoint.

Festool Domino plywood tenons

Festool Domino mortise in plywood

The other key adjustment you need to consider is the vertical alignment of the cut, which is set by adjusting the Domino’s fence height.  To set the height you have two options:  use one of the Domino’s presets on the board thickness gauge, which covers a variety of standard board thicknesses and centers the mortise on the thickness specified; or you can use the Domino’s height gauge, which shows the distance from the bottom of the Domino fence to the centerline of the mortising bit.  As is the case with the mortise depth of cut, adjusting the fence height or adjusting the settings on the board thickness gauge is incredibly quick and simple and takes only seconds to accomplish.  If you’re joining two angles, you can also adjust the angle of the fence, perfect for joining a variety of different mitered pieces.

These are really the two key elements to learn when first using the Domino system, and once you understand how they work, the rest is a breeze.

I mentioned earlier that one of the key features of the Domino system is precision, and rather than list different Domino features, I’ll give you a quick real world use example of what I mean.

Festool Domino joining plywood

Festool Domino joining plywood

Let’s say you want to join two boards or two pieces of 3/4″ plywood together, as shown in the photo above.  Once you’ve adjusted the Domino’s two settings already mentioned (mortise depth and the vertical alignment), the first step is aligning the Domino for its first mortise.  Making the task quick and precise, the Domino features built in indexing pins, which you simply butt up to the edge of your workpieces, eliminating the need to measure and mark.  From here, you have two options.  You can align your two pieces of wood, mark measurements every 6 inches (or whatever distance you’d like), align the Domino to each pencil mark, and make the cuts.  Your other option, and one that I highly recommend, is you can purchase the Domino set that includes the trim and cross stops.

Festool Domino Cross Stops

Festool Domino Cross Stops

With the cross stops, you’re simply adding a measurement scale and a bigger set of indexing pins.  Set the distance you want between each mortise, align the cross stop’s indexing pin inside the mortise you previously cut, and you get perfectly spaced mortises without the need to measure or even mark your workpieces.  For joining boards, plywood or shelving, the speed of the Domino system is simply remarkable and will change the way you work.

From here, your possibilities in Domino joining are huge.  I won’t go into specifics, because simply put, the Domino’s versatility is simply too great.  It’s one of those tools that once you have it, you start seeing different ways you can use it on a huge variety of projects, and you look back at past things you built and wish you had gotten it sooner, as it would have saved you significant time and labor.  Instead, here some random questions my friends have asked me about the Domino to hopefully shed more light into its versatility.

  • How precise is it?  When joining boards and plywood, which is primarily where I need precision, it’s dead on.  It’s so accurate I actually stopped test fitting most pieces, and the few times I do test fit, it’s still always accurate.  If you’re accustomed to joining pieces with a biscuit joiner and then having to go back and sand the two pieces so they’re flush, the Domino precise alignment will virtually eliminate the need to sand, it’s that good.
  • Is it difficult to change the cutters for different sized tenons?  Not at all.  Cutter changes require a small wrench that comes included in the Domino’s Systainer, and the process takes about 30 seconds once you know what you’re doing.
  • Does the Domino work on narrow pieces?  Absolutely.  Because I purchased the Domino set, it came with trim stops, which keep narrow pieces of stock perfectly in alignment.  Even without the trim stop, however, with a bit of clamping you’ll have no problem mortising narrow pieces.  The same is true for round pieces: use the optional hand rail fence, and you’ll have no trouble creating mortises in what would ordinarily be a very difficult workpiece.
  • Is there much dust?  No, I don’t think there’s any.  Using the Domino requires the use of a dust extractor (I use the Festool CT 26), and together the two create dust-free cutting that are immediately ready to be glued.
  • Is there anything you’d recommend to purchase with the Domino?  As noted in the previous question, you’ll need a dust extractor, and for the small extra cost, I highly recommend the Domino DF 500 set that includes the trim and cross stops.  In addition, I highly recommend the Domino DF 500 tenon assortment, which is a Systainer packed with five different cutter sizes and a huge assortment of Domino tenons.  It keeps everything neat and tidy, and it comes with enough Dominos to handle a huge variety of joining needs.

So that’s my take on the Domino DF 500 – you can learn more about its tech specs at the official Festool USA website.  This brings me to the Domino DF 500’s bigger brother, the Festool Domino XL.

Festool Domino XL side

Festool Domino XL

Festool Domino XL

Take everything I said about the Domino DF 500, supersize it, and you have a good idea of what to expect from the Domino XL.  It operates under exactly the same principle as the DF 500, with the key difference being its more powerful and cuts larger tenons, but foregoes the smaller tenon sizes.  Whereas the DF 500 goes as small as 4mm thick tenons, the Domino XL’s smallest tenon thickness is 8mm.  The flip side, however, is that the Domino’s largest tenon is huge, with a 14mm thickness and a 140mm (approximately 5 1/2-inch) length.

If you know you’re going to be primarily working with a certain size wood on one side of the spectrum, then picking between the Domino DF 500 and the Domino XL is easy:  pick the size you need.  The trouble, however, is what happens when you need a range of cutting sizes that falls in the middle?  Do you opt for the bigger or smaller option or both?

Festool Domino XLcutting Domino mortise

Festool Domino XL cutting mortise

I’ll give you my answer in a second, but first let me cover the Domino XL’s features quickly.  As is the case with the DF 500, the two main things you’ll need to familiarize yourself with are the Domino XL’s mortise depth and vertical alignment settings.  As is the case with the DF 500, you can choose to either center the Domino tenon between each workpiece or offset it.  With the Domino XL, in addition to the actual mortise depth setting, there’s also a minimum and maximum depth setting, allowing you to quickly switch back and forth between two settings if you are offsetting the tenons, saving a little bit of brain power.  You can also adjust the mortise width, opting for either tight fitting Domino tenons or tenons with a little extra leeway.  Unlike the DF 500 that offers three mortise widths, the Domino XL offers two:  tight, and an extra 3mm width.

As for the vertical height setting, you again can use the Domino XL’s board thickness gauge, which centers the mortise in a variety of common board thicknesses, or you can use the Domino XL’s height gauge, which measures the distance from the bottom of the fence to the center of the mortising bit.  Setting the height takes only seconds, and is accomplished via a single locking lever.  Adjusting the fence’s angle is equally as simple for mitered pieces:  simply loosen the other locking lever, adjust the fence, and re-tighten.  Detents and an easy-to-read angle gauge make setting the perfect angle easy for various mitered cuts.

Festool Domino XL indexing pins

Festool Domino XL indexing pins

When it comes to aligning two pieces (like edge joining two pieces of wood for example), the Domino XL operates under the same principles as the DF 500, meaning it’s equally as precise.  Whereas the DF 500 has a pair of built-in indexing pins (one on each side) that allow you to make your first mortise without marking or measuring, the Domino XL uses similar indexing pins.  The difference is that the Domino XL uses six (three on each side), allowing even more fine tuning of Domino tenon placement without the need to measure or mark.  These pins also make cutting multiple mortises that are in close proximity incredibly easy, as once you cut your first mortise, you can use the indexing pins inside this mortise for even, consistent mortise spacing.

If you’re joining larger pieces with a larger mortise spacing, the Domino XL also accepts the same cross stops used on the DF 500, allowing you to set a distance and then use the cross stop’s indexing pin to reference off the previously cut mortice.  In other words, even when joining large pieces, just like with the DF 500, there’s no measuring or marking required.  The same is true for the other DF 500 accessories:  for creating a mortise in narrow boards, the Domino XL accepts the trim stop, and for mortising in round workpieces, it also accepts the hand rail guide.  As is the case with the DF 500, if you’re considering a Domino XL, I highly recommend opting for the Festool Domino XL kit that includes the trim and cross stops, as they’re invaluable when joining larger pieces of wood as well as narrower pieces of stock.

Festool Domino XL with Domino mortises

Festool Domino XL with Domino mortises

So why did I buy the Festool Domino XL when I already owned the DF 500?  For me, it came down to the work I was doing.  I’ve been renovating my home for the past several years, accumulating new tools as I go, and when I started, I did a large amount of interior work that the Domino DF 500 excelled at.  For me it was a game changing tool as far as speed and precision in joining wood, and I immediately fell in love with the Domino system.  When the Domino XL was released, I knew that eventually I would have one, so when it came time to undertake a project that required a larger joinery method than what the DF 500 was capable of, I didn’t hesitate to add the Domino XL to my arsenal.  From a cost standpoint, not including my own labor, the Domino paid for itself after my first door building project.  It also opened up a huge range of new projects for me, especially when it came to building things outside my home, and it’s grown to become one of my most used tools for larger scale projects.

If you’re considering which Domino to purchase, my advice is to narrow down as much as possible the work you’re going to use it for.  It’s tempting to take the bigger is better mentality, but for most indoor projects, the DF 500 performs brilliantly.  It’s small, nimble and comfortable to use. If you’re worried that later on down the line you may want more capacity, do what I did and add the Domino XL to your tool stable.  One or two projects in, and it will pay for itself anyways.

Festool Domino XL with Domino Systainer

Festool Domino XL with Domino Systainer

On the other hand, if you’re building things on a bigger scale on an even semi regular basis, the Domino XL is superb.  I love the feel of the Domino XL, its ergonomics and its build quality, and once you use it, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.  I’ve built doors, a garden gate and several pieces of furniture with the Domino XL that I never would have attempted otherwise, and they all turned out beautifully.  One thing to note on the mortise sizes of the Domino XL: there are some aftermarket adapters that let you move down to smaller cutter sizes with the Domino XL, although I personally haven’t used them.  For me, when using the smaller cutters, reaching for the DF 500 has become like second nature, and I can’t picture using the XL in its place.  If I was only occasionally using the adapter on the Domino XL I probably wouldn’t mind it, but considering how much work I do with the smaller cutter sizes, the DF 500 is right for me.

Long story short, if you have the budget for one and can’t decide which to buy, buy the one that’s best suited for the majority of your work, skip a few meals out for the next month or two, then buy the other one.  You won’t regret it, and with the time and labor you’ll save on projects, they’ll pay for themselves in no time.

Like the Domino DF 500, rather than list a variety of random features of the Domino XL, I’ll answer the questions my friends ask me the most about it.

  • Can I use the Domino XL to build (fill in the blank)?  Usually this question ends with something large, and the answer is usually yes.  The Domino XL will let you build massive pieces, whether it’s a garage door, an arbor for your outdoor living space, a garden gate, etc.  For outdoor projects you can opt for sipo tenons, which offer even greater durability for outdoor projects.
  • How much dust is there when cutting?  Like the DF 500, I don’t think there’s any.  The Domino XL requires the use of a dust extractor (I use the Festool CT 26), and together the two create dust-free cutting that are immediately ready to be glued.
  • Is it hard to change the cutters?  No, it’s pretty much identical to changing cutters on the DF 500.  A single wrench that comes included with the Domino XL is all you need, and the whole process takes about 30 seconds after you’ve done it a couple times.
  • What accessories do you use with the Domino XL?  You’ll need a dust extractor for cutting, and like the DF 500, I highly recommend the Domino XL set that includes the trim and cross stops.  I also splurged and bought both Domino XL tenon assortments, each of which is a Systainer packed with a variety Domino tenons and corresponding cutters.  It keeps all your Domino tenons neatly organizes and will get you well on your way to some massive joinery projects.

If you’ve made it this far, you clearly want to learn more about the Festool Domino system, and you can do so at the official Festool USA website.  You can also head straight to either the Domino DF 500 or Domino XL pages to see the tech specs on both.  And while you’re at it, be sure to check out the current Festool Sweepstakes, as this month they’re giving away four SysLite LED Work Lamps.

Festool MFT/3

The Festool MFT/3 takes all the benefits of a traditional worktable and re-imagines them in a smaller, portable design

When you start using Festool tools, you’ll quickly discover that ingenuity is one of the hallmarks when compared to other tool brands. Festool does an exceptional job assessing every tool they make, creating tools that not only perform as they should from a functional standpoint, but also adding in design elements that make the job simpler and more enjoyable.

The Festool Track Saws I just told you about are perfect examples. Not only do they cut sheet goods like much larger table and panel saws, but their safety, portability, ease of use and dust collection are all exemplary as well. In many ways, Festool has taken functionality from much larger woodworking equipment that typically requires a huge amount of space, and they’ve re-imagined it in a way that’s easier to use, has a significantly smaller footprint, and is designed to be portable.

As you venture into woodworking, you’ll quickly discover that one of the things you’ll use most in your endeavors is a worktable. A solid worktable is the foundation for many projects, as having a smooth and flat surface is essential for various cutting and joining tasks. The problem with traditional worktables is they require a large amount of space, and from a portability standpoint, they’re pretty much impossible to take with you.

Enter the Festool MFT/3. It’s a worktable for the 21st century – Festool’s reimagining of a classic worktable in a smaller, better performing and portable design. How good is it? For me, it’s the best worktable I’ve ever used, and I use it on pretty much every project I undertake.

So what makes the MFT/3 so great?  Simply put, it’s an integral part of the Festool system. I’ll explain more about the other components later, but for now, here’s a quick overview of the what to expect from the MFT/3 itself.

Festool MFT/3 Fence

Festool MFT/3 Fence

Festool MFT/3 Overview

With a table surface of about 45-9/16″ x 30-7/16″ and a weight of 62 lbs., the first thing you’ll notice about the MFT/3 is that it’s designed to be portable. Typical worktables are huge and almost impossible to move, whereas the MFT/3 is the exact opposite. The legs all fold quickly through the use of large, comfortable tensioning knobs; the weight is manageable by one person; and the legs are all covered in rubber feet (one of which is adjustable, to level the MFT/3 on uneven surfaces).

I know what you’re thinking: why do I need a portable worktable if I’m never going to take it anywhere? At least, this was my thought. I have a dedicated workshop in my garage with space for a larger table, so for me, the portability factor didn’t seem like a big deal. But as I started doing more projects around the house, I soon discovered the benefits of a mobile worktable. Because all of the Festool tools I use note exemplary dust collection, it’s possible to move from my tools to the actual room I’m working on. So in the past, if I was working on a project in the bedroom, for example, I would go to the bedroom, measure, go back to my workshop, make the cut, go back to the bedroom to test the cut, and so on. But when I started adding up how much time it took going back and forth, I realized how much time I was wasting. And that’s where Festool comes in. With the MFT/3, I can have a solid worktable in the actual room I’m working on, saving me numerous trips back and forth to the cutting station, while the integrated dust collection ensures my house isn’t covered in sawdust. The same is true for outdoor projects – with the MFT/3, you can set up a workstation exactly where you need it, saving you a huge amount of time not having to go back and forth to another location for cutting and assembly.

Aside from its portability, the MFT/3’s second defining element is its ingenuity. You’ll note the MFT/3’s work surface is made from MDF with a series of precisely laid out holes, and the border of the table notes both a v-groove and a t-groove on all four sides. It’s this top and these rails that form the basis for the MFT/3’s integration with the full range of Festool accessories. On the work surface, for example, there’s a wide range of clamps that fit into the MFT/3’s perforated top, locking down your workpiece for various routing, sanding and assembly tasks. The same is true on the sides, with the grooves accepting various clamps and accessories as well. And speaking of these grooves, if a single MFT/3 isn’t enough for your projects, multiple MFT/3’s can be jointed together with simple MFT connectors, creating a work area as big as you need it to be. I’ll detail some of my most used Festool accessories in a separate article, but I will say that I’ve used the MFT/3 on a huge assortment of assembly tasks, and when used with the right Festool clamps, you simply can’t beat its versatility and ease-of-use.

Festool MFT/3 Guide Rail and Angle Guide in 45 degree position

Festool MFT/3 Guide Rail and Angle Guide in 45 degree position

Festool MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station

By itself, the MFT/3 is great, but when paired up with the cross-cut accessories, it’s even better. When purchasing the MFT/3, you have the option of either the basic MFT/3 ($545) or the MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station for $100 more. And believe me when I tell you, spend the extra and get the cross-cut option. In addition to the MFT/3 itself, the cross-cut kit includes the FS 1080/2 guide rail system, an angle unit with fence, a fence clamp and a stop flag. With this setup, you’ll immediately discover how Festool has created such a uniquely integrated system.

If you read my previous article on the Festool TS 55 REQ and TS 75 EQ track saws, you already know how capable they are. But when you add in the MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station, their versatility is taken to an entirely new level. With the MFT/3 system, it’s incredibly simple to make perfectly accurate, square cuts, or adjust the angle unit and make perfect miters at any common miter angle.

The way the MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station works is really quite simple. Step one is installing the guide rail onto the integrated mounting units. Once installed, the rail runs perpendicular to the front of the table, and when not in use, it can easily be flipped back for full access to the table’s work surface. It’s also adjustable vertically, allowing cuts up to 3 inches in depth. Step two is installing the angle unit and fence. There are various ways to mount the angle unit (in the front or back, for example), and once mounted, all that’s necessary is to ensure the fence is square to the rail. I use a large carpenter’s square for alignment, while others use an aftermarket product called “dogs”, which are basically dowels that fit precisely into the MFT/3 perforated holes (check the Festool Owner’s Group for more info). Whichever method you use, simply align your fence up to the square (or dogs), ensure it’s square, tighten, and you’re done. When paired with a Festool Track Saw, the system allows you to make perfectly square cuts over 27 inches in width – well beyond what’s possible with any miter saw.

For miter cuts, simply adjust the angle unit and fence (much like you would on a table saw) and cut along the guide rail as before. To prevent flexing of the fence during miter cuts, the included fence clamp attaches to the end of the fence, significantly stiffening the unit. Once set up, the angle functionality of the MFT/3 cross-cut station works incredibly well, rivaling the accuracy of a miter saw but offering significantly more cutting capacity. For added speed when cutting 45 degree miters, you can again opt to use the “dogs” as well, with the MFT/3’s diagonal hole pattern giving you a precise 45 degree angle. Simply install two or more of the dogs diagonally, butt your workpiece up to them, and make the cut.

To put it simply, if you’re purchasing a Festool track saw, adding the Festool MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station will take its level of functionality to an entirely new level.

Festool MFT/3 Guide Rail

Festool MFT/3 Guide Rail

In addition to Festool’s track saws, I should also note that the cross-cut station works beautifully with Festool routers and jigsaws as well, with routers in particular something I use quite often with the MFT/3. Because the Festool router family can all be used with Festool guide rails, precise routing tasks can be accomplished with significantly less effort than with other systems. One of the things I recently used it for is routing dados for cabinetry. First, I added an auxiliary fence running parallel to the guide rail to ensure the workpiece was positioned in exactly the same place each time; then I used the router in tandem with the guide rail to make perfect dados. You can use the same system if you need to make a series of linear plunge cuts, as the guide rail and fence ensures perfect uniformity across all pieces.

In truth, the more you use the MFT/3, the more you can customize it to fit your specific needs. There’s really not a right or wrong way to set it up; it’s more a case of thinking about the work you need to do and setting it up to suit your specific needs. If you use your track saw to make a large amount of small rip cuts, for example, you can add an auxiliary fence with integrated measurements to speed the process. If you’re making a series of cabinets and are planning on routing a large amount of dados, you can add a longer rail running parallel to the front of the MFT/3 and route two sides of the cabinets in a single pass. Once you start using it, and understand the versatility of the rails and hole placement, there’s really a huge assortment of ways you can suit the MFT/3 to different project types. As I said in my Festool Track Saw article, the Festool Owner’s Group and Festool YouTube channels are both great ways to learn tips and tricks for getting the most out your MFT/3 table.

So in conclusion, what do I think about the MFT/3? I love it; it’s as simple as that. I used my track saws by themselves for a short time, and they were fantastic, but once I added the MFT/3, it took their versatility to an entirely new level. The MFT/3 in tandem with my track saws are easily two of the most used Festools in my workshop, and whether you’re a new or experienced woodworker, I guarantee they’ll save you time and give you better results on your next project. And when it comes to tools, there’s really nothing else you can ask for.  You can check out both the Festool MFT/3 and the Festool MFT/3 Cross-Cut Station on the official Festool USA website.  And don’t forget to check out the Festool Sweepstakes website, where right now you can sign up to win a new Festool TS 55 REQ Track Saw and a CT 26 HEPA Dust Extractor.